Who invented knitting? Was it a sage or a shaman who one day picked up two sticks, some string, and began the incredible act of knitting? Was this ancient genius filled with divine inspiration or dark magic? Could it have been a lucky accident?
When I began researching the history of knitting, I expected legends and myths and maybe a few charming fairy tales. What fun it would be to discover Rumpelstiltskin-like stories about maidens in dire straits, knitting late into the night!
I had good reason to expect this. After all, the ancient and similar craft of weaving is central to dozens of myths and legends. Take, for example, Penelope from Homer’s Odyssey. While her husband Odysseus was off fighting the Trojan War, she fended off lovestruck suitors with a bargain: she would choose a new husband when she finished weaving a shroud. She then wove the shroud by day and undid it by night, delaying her answer until Odysseus finally returned.
Or consider the mortal Arachne, who challenged the goddess Athena to a weaving dual (weave-off?). Being mortal, she was no challenge at all and lost. The shame was so unbearable that Arachne hung herself. But that’s not the end. Athena pitied her and brought her back to life – but not as a mortal, but a spider so that Arachne would spend the rest of her life weaving. Ouch.
See what I mean about great tales? What stories would knitting’s origins reveal?
A Puzzle with Missing Pieces
Despite high hopes, my research revealed neither mortals nor gods. Instead, knitting’s history is made up of an assortment of clues, competing theories from scholars and half-rotted fragments on the verge of disintegration. Not exactly the fun romp through fairy tales I was hoping for.
Unlike spinning or weaving, knitting doesn’t figure in any ancient myths. In fact, there isn’t even an ancient Greek or Latin word for knitting! The word “to knit” didn’t make an appearance in the Oxford Unabridged English Dictionary until the fifteenth century and wasn’t part of any European language until the Renaissance. All this confirms that knitting is a relatively new invention.
So, if knitting doesn’t have an ancient pedigree, when did it appear on the scene? This is a hard question because many of the earliest knitted garments have disappeared. The reason for this is simple: early knitting was made from natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool – fibers that decompose easily. With few existing fragments, the picture of knitting’s origins becomes fuzzy, a puzzle with missing pieces.
Would the Real Knitting Please Stand Up?
Add to this mix a slippery imposter in the form of nålbinding and we have a truly complicated case. Nålbinding is a needlecraft that produces a fabric that looks like knitting and acts like knitting but, on closer inspection, is not knitting.
Whereas knitting uses two needles to make loops within loops with string, nålbinding uses one needle to splice and knot string together – a process more akin to sewing. However, both knitting and nalbinding produce near-identical looking fabric. In a police lineup, you’d be hard-pressed to pick out knitting from nålbinding.
In fact, nålbinding even managed to dupe scholars. It was years before anyone realized that what had been celebrated as the first piece of knitting – a fragment from Dura-Europos, Syria – was not knitting at all but nålbinding!
The reason the two are so similar is because knitting may have grown out of nålbinding. At some point, a nålbinder might have introduced a second needle into the work and played around until the nålbinding evolved into knitting. It could have happened, but with so little evidence, we can’t know for sure.
Now, that we’ve looked at these impressive nålbinded counterfeits, let’s check out the real deal. The first genuine knitted pieces are from Egypt, circa 1000-1400 AD (much later than the nålbinded garments). They include some colorful fragments and intricate socks (sometimes called Coptic socks) knit in white and indigo cotton.
Even though these socks are the earliest knitted remains we have, becaues of their complexity, they probably aren’t the first knitted garments in history. As Julie Theaker over at Knitty puts it, “Would YOU do stranded-color socks as your first project, particularly if you were making it up as you went and had no one to teach you?” Touché
So, let’s take stock. This is a reasonable, if scant, conclusion about knitting’s origins: knitting began in or around Egypt at around 1000AD and possibly grew out of nålbinding.
Yup. That’s it. Hardly conclusive and waffly as heck, but better than nothing, right?
Unfortunately for us, the particulars of knitting’s origins are lost to history. But once knitting makes its way into Europe, things really start to pick up. The Virgin Mary gets involved, guilds form, and some seriously ballin’ gloves are made for the Catholic Church.
That’s all in Part 2 of The History of Knitting!
elinnachoy says
excellent information and humorous writing. It inspires me to want to know a bit more about the origin of knitting. thanks.
Davina says
You’re very welcome! Knitting has such a strange, mysterious history. I’m so glad you enjoyed reading about it!
Damian says
Do you think knitting or it’s cousin was invented or perhaps discovered?
jet says
thank you for the article of the history of knitting.
i have enjoyed it.
Davina says
Glad you liked it!
carol robinson says
Really enjoyed the history lesson. Can you help me I have been after a history of knitting book for years and can’t remember what the title was. The front cover has on it.theblack and white bow sweater. The one of the two you have shown in the history. Anybody out there can help me. Carol Robinson
Davina says
Hi Carol,
Try these references. I used them for this blog post:
A History of Hand Knitting by Richard Rutt (https://amzn.com/0934026351), Knitting America: A Glorious Heritage from Warm Socks to High Art (https://amzn.com/0760340110) and Knitting Around the World (https://amzn.com/0760337942) I’m sure there are others, but these three were really great!
Charlene Loftis says
Knitting is as old as the Bible…King David talked to God about God knitting him together in his mothers womb. Mostly wool was woven in the Biblical era…at least spinning by drop spindle was a very present tool in early Biblical history.
Thanks for your article, it is fun to read what people find in research.
Davina says
Hi Charlene! You have completely intrigued me with your comment! I went and did some digging because I know that verse from Psalm 139:13, but I never made the connection to knitting!
My Google detective work has unearthed a super detailed article written by a theologian on the Hebrew word “cakak”, which is the word that’s translated as “knitted” or “woven” in the NIV, NASB and ESV version of the Bible. In the King James version, “cakak” is translated as “covered.”The Hebrew-English lexicon by Brown, Driver, and Briggs translates it as “weave together.”
So, it’s not clear whether knitting was present in Biblical times (or the time when King David was writing) or if knitting was used as a comparable translation for “cakak”. Personally, I’m siding with the latter.
For reference, here’s the link to the article. Very interesting read!: https://answersingenesis.org/sanctity-of-life/weaved-together-in-the-womb/
Mike says
I’d heard that knitting was traditionally a gentleman’s hobby, so I’m just doing some Googling to learn a bit more – I stumbled across this article, it’s brill! Your style of writing is on point, I really enjoyed reading this!
Davina says
Thanks Mike! You’re right about knitting being a gentleman’s hobby. Women were once thought to be incapable of handling complex stitch patterns. Knitting was serious stuff, strictly for men. How times have changed!
VaL Chambers says
Very interesting — another Biblical thought — the soldiers at the Crucifixion drew lots for Jesus’ cloak as it would be spoiled if it was cut. As a child I was told this was an indication that this was a knitted garment. Did Nalbinding run like knitting if it was cut?
Davina says
Hey Val! That’s interesting! Because nalbinding was so labor-intensive, and thus, I would think, more expensive than a woven cloak, I’m not sure that Jesus would have worn a nalbinded cloak since my understanding is that his material possessions were quite humble. As for whether nalbinding runs, Wikipedia tells me that “nalbinding does not unravel and therefore special finishing borders are not necessary” (https://bit.ly/1mtOiNU)
Donald Herkes says
That was an awesome read, comments and all. Thank you very much for the interesting article, and threads to follow in everyone’s comments. Wishing you all well!
Davina says
Thanks Donald! Glad to bring some history to the blog!
Philips says
Thanks so much for the history relieved
Cathy James says
I love this. It’s hard to believe how much we’ve forgotten and had to relearn
Susan Obrant says
What about crochet?
Judy says
if fishermen made nets to catch fish, why couldn’t they knit and crochet? It only stands to reason that a fisherman’s wife could have picked up the craft to make cold weather clothing for their man and children.
Davina says
I could be wrong, but I think nets are woven and/or knotted instead of knitted. But yes, a fisherman’s wife could certainly have been the one to invent knitting! We just don’t have any proof one way or another!
Susan Bayley Prittie says
After dinner with friends last night, I picked up my knitting which prompted the question about the origin of knitting. I looked on-line and found your very interesting and fascinating article. I plan a trip to the UK and will now seek out the display you featured from the Victoria and Albert Museum. Thank-you.
Davina says
Wonderful! I’m so envious of you! The Victoria and Albert Museum is so beautiful and fascinating. Make sure to wear comfy shoes! You’ll need ’em when browsing the museum exhibits. Have a great trip!
Kirsten says
I am a knitter, spinner, dyer and all around lover of anything to do with the fibre arts. I loved your article and would love to delve more in to this art/craft that has clothed our nations for generations! Thank you for writing this!
Charlotte says
Thank you for that 🙂
I’m in a Medieval group (Adrian Empire)- and am always interested in anything I can make from that time period.
Thomas says
Great post! Have nice day ! 🙂 whord
anjum wasim dar says
amazing information for my focus is also on recording tales about hand knitting…
roz says
I’m wondering if the early fishermen made their nets using the arm knitting method (which produces an open netting depending on the size of ones own wrist) which then evolved into using tools (knitting needles) to accomplish smaller stitches which could clothe the body. Any thoughts on the origin and time period of arm knitting would be appreciated. There has been a recent resurgence in arm knitting (using bulky yarn to make fast and easy items) but surely it is of ancient origin (before tools). I enjoyed this article and everyone’s comments. Happy knitting!
Davina says
Hi Roz! I found your question so intriguing that I fell into a Google rabbit hole, looking for “how fishermans nets are made.” It seems they’re made by knotting twine with the use of a shuttle and a gauge. This post was quite instructive: https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Content/NetMakingTips.htm Anyway, I’m not sure that arm knitting was used for making nets, but I’m intrigued about early forms of arm knitting. When I have more time, I’ve ask the Google about it and likely fall into yet another rabbit hole! 😛
Monica Bachelder says
The picture of the Egyptian sock is amazing. I would assume that Egyptians knew how to knit for ages. The word knit could be replaced for any other word maybe even something like ‘hand weaving’ but in a different language. Just need to find that word.
On a trip to Scotland I was excited to visit wool shops and buy yarn and knitting notions but I was surprised to find very few of these shops. When I asked the locals the response I got was “No dear. It’s cheaper to just buy it. No one really does that here. There may be a shop in Edinburgh.” I had to Google to find anything but there certainly weren’t many and the locals young and old were not interested. Even my partner was amazed at this because their beautiful country side was filled with sheep.
My cousin lived in Iceland for awhile and thru her I have learned Iceland has a knitting passion that’s ancient and still going strong for young and old. Awesome wool there also. Maybe the origin will come to the surface thru Iceland.
Margot Bassman says
I have recently learned about Shetland Wool Week, which takes place once a year in late September/early October. They have a web page, and there is also a Facebook group that I have been following that is filled with interesting personal accounts of fascinating classes, tours, and meetings. It seems that Shetland has revived their heritage of wool; they are even teaching school children to knit.
Val Chambers says
I don’t think the Scottish Mainland has a particularly strong knitting tradition unlike the islands – Shetland, Aran etc – where the tradition continues and websites where wool can be purchased – try Jamesons for Shetland wool. And of course the islands’ populations do have a strong Norse heritage and much in common with Iceland. The mainland both pre and post industrial revolution is noted for weaving — hence all that Tartan and Paisley. All that wool from the sheep historically would have been used for the local weaving industry or exported to England. Patons wool, not sure where thy are based now but were established in Scotland but again am pretty sure this was wool exported to England. I have a blanket knitted by a Scottish Great Granny, very precious to me and pretty old but is no way a thing of beauty! being a mish mash of garter stitch squares of various sizes and in garish colours.
kachina neon says
i have been nalbinding since the late 70s, and have a simple evolution from coptic stitch to knitting. we nalbinders often use the nal or another dowel [or in my case knitting needle] to gauge [tension] stitches to make them even. in the case of coptic stitch i was keeping the dowel in the stitches to save work, just sliding it as i went, and i realized that it would be very easy to go from that to knitting. stitches are already on a “needle”, you already are familiar with the structure, and it is a very tiny leap from one to the other at that point.
Ken says
“Or consider the mortal Arachne, who challenged the goddess Athena to a weaving dual (weave-off?). ” Should be DUEL. 🙂 Great article, though!
Linda Lee Sims says
I can’t thank you enough for being such a good instructor. Your talent is overwhelming and so is your sharing of craft information. After 55 yrs of crocheting, I decided I needed more stimulation – took up knitting. Your SheepandStitch web site is a God send for a 77 yr old great-grandma. Your kind to share all your talent!