How to Knit a Tank Top (Free Knitting Pattern)
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The Coastline Tank Top is a light and breezy tank top. It features a universally-flattering scoop neck and a sleek ribbed armhole that seamlessly blends into the side ribbing. An optional split-hem gives it an extra summery look.
This tank includes 9 sizes, from a 30” to 54” bust.
This tank top is for experienced knitters who are comfortable with the basics of knitting, including how to read a multi-size pattern, knitting in the round, and counting stitches and rows.
This pattern includes a detailed step-by-step tutorial video that covers the trickier aspects of this pattern, including charting increases, casting on stitches mid-row, knitting a split hem, picking up stitches for the neckline and more.
Buy the Coastline Tank Top Pattern
While the pattern instructions for the Coastline Tank Top are free below, you can purchase the printable pattern PDF file by clicking the button above or visiting the product page for the tank.
The PDF is ready to be printed and marked up by you. Upon purchase, the pattern file will be delivered to you by email. Thank you for your support!
Check the Ravelry page to see other knitters’ Coastline tank tops for ideas and inspiration.
Materials
Yarn: 420 (430, 460, 480, 510) (580, 630, 680, 750) metres [460 (470, 510, 530, 560) (630, 685, 750, 820) yards] Sandnes Garn Line (50g = 110 m) in color 9564 Matcha
Needles
• One US 6 (4 mm) 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle
• One US 4 (3.5 mm) 40 or 60 cm [16 or 24 inch] circular needle (for neckband)
• One US 4 (3.5 mm) 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle (for hem)
Notions: Stitch markers, including removable markers; cable needle
Gauge: 20 sts and 31 rows = 10 cm / 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round, using larger needles. Change needle size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
Finished Measurements
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) (6, 7, 8, 9)
Finished bust measurements: 76 (80, 86.5, 90, 96) (107.5, 117, 126.5, 138) cm / 30 (31.5, 34, 35.5, 37.75) (42.25, 46, 49.75, 54.25) inches
Choosing a Tank Top Size
The Coastline Tank Top should have 5-7.5 cm / 2-3” of positive ease. It’s meant to be a breezy, loose top. Use the size chart below to help determine your size.
For example, model Camille has a 35” bust and is wearing a size 5, which gives her 2.75” of positive ease.
View this pattern on Ravelry (LINK) to see how other knitters have knit up their Coastline tank top.
Coastline Tank Top Video Tutorial
Watch these video tutorials for a step-by-step walkthrough of this pattern. I’ve split this video into two so it’s easier to watch and manage.
Part 1
Part 1 covers the sizing, materials, cast on, left and right shaping, front and back join and knitting the body of the tank top.
If you’re an advanced knitter, I recommend watching picking up of stitches on the left front, specifically at the edge sts (21:20) and joining of the front and back (46:15),
Part 2
Part 2 covers knitting the circular and split hem, pick-up rate for the neckline, weaving in ends and blocking.
If you’re an advanced knitter, I recommend watching the split hem (3:46) and picking up stitches for the neckline (18:41).
Pattern Notes:
The Coastline Tank Top is worked from the top down. Stitches are cast on for the back, and the back is worked through armhole shaping to the base of the armholes, then placed on hold. Stitches for each front are picked up from the back shoulders and worked separately.
Stitches are then cast on for the centre neck, and the fronts are joined and worked to the base of the armholes, with armhole shaping to get to the same number of stitches as for the back.
The front and back are joined, with stitches cast on for each armhole, and the body is worked in the round to the bottom. You have the option of working a circular or a split hem; instructions for both are included.
Stitches are picked up around the neckline and knit in rib to create the neckband.
About Edge Stitches: The 7 sts on each side of the back and fronts are always worked in 1×1 rib. Whether you’re on the RS or WS, the first edge stitch is always slipped knitwise and the last edge stitch of the row is always purled.
When working the 7 edge stitches, give the working yarn a tug after knitting each stitch to tighten up the rib. This will give the edge stitches a neat and tidy look.
Pattern Instructions:
BACK
With larger 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle, CO 64 (66, 66, 68, 70) (74, 76, 78, 82) sts.
Set-up row (WS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, [k1, p1] 3 times, PM, purl to last 7 sts, PM, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, [p1, k1] 3 times, SM, knit to marker, SM, [k1, p1] 3 times, p1.
Row 2 (WS): Work 7 edge sts as established, SM, purl to marker, SM, work 7 edge sts as established.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until back measures 16 (15, 14.5, 15, 14) (13, 11.5, 10, 9) cm [6.25 (6, 5.75, 6, 5.5) (5, 4.5, 4, 3.5) inches], ending having worked a WS row.
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, SM, work edge sts to end – 2 sts increased.
Row 2 (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2 a further 6 (7, 10, 11, 13) (16, 19, 22, 25) more times – 78 (82, 88, 92, 98) (108, 116, 124, 134) sts.
Place sts on smaller 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle or scrap yarn and cut yarn, leaving a 20 cm [8 inch] tail.
LEFT FRONT
Place a removable marker 17 (17, 17, 18, 19) (19, 20, 20, 22) sts in from each edge along CO edge of back. (Photo 1)
With RS facing, using larger 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle and beginning at marker at left neck edge, pick up and knit 17 (17, 17, 18, 19) (19, 20, 20, 22) sts to left armhole edge (1 st in each CO st). (Photo 2)
Set-Up Row (WS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, [k1, p1] 3 times, PM, purl to end.
Row 1 (RS): Knit to marker, SM, [k1, p1] 3 times, p1.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, [k1, p1] 3 times, SM, purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until armhole measures 8 (9.5, 7.5, 9, 9) (8, 9.5, 9.5, 11) cm [3.25 (3.75, 3, 3.5, 3.5) (3.25, 3.75, 3.75, 4.25) inches] from pick-up row, ending having worked a WS row.
Shape Neck
Increase Row (RS): K2, M1L, knit to marker, SM, work edge sts to end – 1 st increased.
Even Row (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to end.
Repeat Increase Row and Even Row 10 (9, 13, 13, 13) (13, 9, 7, 4) more times – 28 (27, 31, 32, 33) (33, 30, 28, 27) sts.
SIZES 6, 7, 8, and 9 ONLY:
Shape Neck and Armhole
Increase Row (RS): K2, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, SM, work edge sts to end – 2 sts increased.
Even Row (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to end.
Repeat Increase Row and Even Row – (-, -, -, -) (1, 5, 7, 10) more time(s) – – (-, -, -, -) (37, 42, 44, 49) sts.
ALL SIZES
Place sts on smaller 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle or scrap yarn and cut yarn, leaving a 20 cm [8 inch] tail.
RIGHT FRONT
With RS facing, using larger 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle and beginning at right armhole edge, pick up and knit 17 (17, 17, 18, 19) (19, 20, 20, 22) sts to marker at right neck edge (1 st in each CO st).
Set-up Row (WS): Purl to last 7 sts, PM, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1.
Row 1 (RS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, [p1, k1] 3 times, SM, knit to end.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to last 7 sts, SM, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until armhole measures 8 (9.5, 7.5, 9, 9) (8, 9.5, 9.5, 11) cm [3.25 (3.75, 3, 3.5, 3.5) (3.25, 3.75, 3.75, 4.25) inches] from pick-up row, ending having worked a WS row.
Shape Neck
Increase Row (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2 – 1 st increased.
Even Row (WS): Purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Repeat Increase Row and Even Row 10 (9, 13, 13, 13) (13, 9, 7, 4) more times – 28 (27, 31, 32, 33) (33, 30, 28, 27) sts.
SIZES 6, 7, 8, and 9 ONLY
Shape Neck and Armhole
Increase Row (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, M1L, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2 – 2 sts increased.
Even Row (WS): Purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Repeat Increase Row and Even Row – (-, -, -, -) (1, 5, 7, 10) more time(s) – – (-, -, -, -) (37, 42, 44, 49) sts.
ALL SIZES
Leave sts on the needle; do not cut yarn. (Photo 3)
Join Fronts
Joining Row (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, M1L, knit to end of right front, CO 16 (18, 18, 18, 18) (20, 20, 22, 22) sts for centre front neck using backward-loop CO, knit across left front sts to marker, M1R, SM, work edge sts to end – 74 (74, 82, 84, 86) (96, 106, 112, 122) sts. (Photo 4)
Next Row (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Work 4 (0, 2, 2, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0) rows even).
ALL SIZES
Shape Armholes
Work increase rows according to your size as follows:
SIZES 1, 2, 3, and 4 ONLY:
Row 1 (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, SM, work edge sts to end – 2 sts increased.
Row 2 (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Row 3 (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, knit to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Row 4 (WS): Repeat row 2.
Work rows 1-4 1 (1, 1, 0, -) (-, -, -, -) more time – 78 (78, 86, 86, -) (-, -, -, -) sts.
SIZES 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 ONLY:
Row 1 (RS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, SM, work edge sts to end – 2 sts increased.
Row 2 (WS): Work edge sts to marker, SM, purl to marker, SM, work edge sts to end.
Work rows 1-2 – (1, 0, 2, 5) (5, 4, 5, 5) more time(s) – (82, 88, 92, 98) (108, 116, 124, 134) sts.
BODY
Join Front and Back
Joining Row (RS): Work across the front – K1tbl, work remaining 6 edge sts, SM, knit to marker, SM, work 6 edge sts, k1tbl, CO 3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (5, 7, 9, 11) sts with backward-loop CO or cable CO for underarm.
Now work across the back – K1tbl, work remaining 6 edge sts, SM, knit to marker, SM, work 6 edge sts, k1tbl, CO 3 (3, 3, 3, 3) (5, 7, 9, 11) sts with backward-loop CO or cable CO for underarm – 162 (170, 182, 190, 202) (226, 246, 266, 290) sts.
Join & Set-Up Round: PM to mark BOR, k1tbl, work edge sts to marker, SM, knit to marker, SM, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1tbl, p1, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 3, 4, 5) time(s), k1tbl, [p1, k1] 3 times, SM, knit to marker, SM, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1tbl, p1, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 3, 4, 5) time(s).
Round 1: **K1, [p1, k1] to marker, SM, knit to next marker, SM** twice, [k1, p1] to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 22 (22, 23, 23, 23) (23, 23, 23, 23½) cm [8.75 (8.75, 9, 9, 9) (9, 9, 9, 9.25) inches] from underarm, or to 5 cm [2 inches] less than desired length.
HEM
There are two options for the hem: a circular hem and a split hem. Below are instructions for both hems. If you prefer a split hem, skip to the instructions in the Split Hem section.
Circular Hem
Change to smaller 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle.
Set-Up Round: **Work rib as established to marker, remove marker, M1-P, [k1, p1] to marker, remove marker; repeat from ** twice, work rib as established to end – 164 (172, 184, 192, 204) (228, 248, 268, 292) sts.
Rib Round: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat Rib Round until rib measures 5 cm [2 inches] if you plan to BO in pattern. Knit until rib measures 4½ cm [1.75 inches] if you plan to work an Italian tubular BO.
BO in pattern or using Italian tubular BO, as follows.
Italian Tubular BO
Watch the Italian tubular bind off video for a full tutorial. Complete the following two set-up rounds before the sewn instructions:
Tubular Round 1: *K1, sl1 wyif; repeat from * to end.
Tubular Round 2: *Sl1 wyib, p1; repeat from * to end.
Measure out a length of yarn that is three times the length of the bind off edge. Cut the yarn loose and thread onto a tapestry needle.
Sewn Instructions:
Step 1: Insert tapestry needle into first st purlwise.
>Step 2: Working from the back, insert tapestry needle into front leg of second st knitwise.
>Step 3: Insert tapestry needle into first st knitwise, dropping st from knitting needle.
>Step 4: Working from the front, insert tapestry needle into second st purlwise.
>Step 5: Insert tapestry needle into first st purlwise, dropping st from knitting needle.
>Step 6: Working from the back, insert tapestry needle into front of second st knitwise.
Repeat Steps 3–6 until all sts are BO, adjusting tension as you BO.
Split Hem
Change to smaller 80 cm [32 inch] circular needle. [Consider watching the tutorial video (TIMESTAMP) for this section as it can be a bit tricky.]
Set-Up Round: **Work rib as established to marker, remove marker, M1-P, [k1, p1] to marker, SM** twice, PM for new BOR, leaving last 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) (12, 14, 16, 18) sts to be worked on next round – 164 (172, 184, 192, 204) (228, 248, 268, 292) sts. (Photo 5 and 6)
Decrease Round: Work 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) (8, 8, 10, 10) sts in rib, sk2p, k2tog, [p1, k1] to 1 st before marker, p1, SM, work 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) (8, 8, 10, 10) sts in rib, sk2p, k2tog, [p1, k1] to last st, p1 – 158 (166, 178, 186, 198) (222, 242, 262, 286) sts remain.
Cable Cross Round: Work 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) (8, 8, 10, 10) sts in rib, slip next st onto cable needle and hold in front, k1, k1 from cable needle, [p1, k1] to 1 st before marker, p1, remove marker, work 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) (8, 8, 10, 10) sts in rib, slip next st onto cable needle and hold in front, k1, PM, k1 from cable needle, [p1, k1] to last st, p1.
Back Hem
Row 1 (RS): Remove BOR marker, work 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) (8, 8, 10, 10) sts in rib, p1, PM, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl1 knitwise wyib, work in rib to 1 st before marker, p1, turn, leaving 79 (83, 89, 93, 99) (111, 121, 131, 143) front sts on the needle but out of work.
Work on 79 (83, 89, 93, 99) (111, 121, 131, 143) back sts only.
Row 3: Sl1 knitwise wyib, work in rib to 1 st before marker, p1, turn.
Repeat Row 3, working sts between markers, until back hem measures 5 cm [2 inches] if you plan to BO in pattern; work until rib measures 4½ cm [1.75 inches] if you plan to work an Italian tubular BO. End having worked a WS row.
On RS, BO in pattern or using Italian tubular BO as follows:
Tubular Row 1 (RS): *K1, sl1 purlwise wyif; repeat from * to last st, k1, turn.
Tubular Row 2 (WS): *Sl1 purlwise wyif, k1; repeat from * to last st, sl1 purlwise wyif.
Work Italian tubular BO sewn instructions steps 1-6 as for circular hem.
Front Hem
With RS facing, remove markers and rejoin yarn. Work as for back hem, beginning with Row 3.
Because markers are removed for the front hem, when working Row 3, knit in rib to the last st, P1 and turn.
Neckband
Switch to smaller 40 cm [16 inch] circular needle and beginning at left shoulder, PUK sts for the neckband using the instructions below based on your preferred bind off method.
If binding off with Italian tubular BO: with RS facing, PUK 1 st for each st around neck opening, ending with an even number of sts. PM to mark BOR.
If BO in pattern: with RS facing, PUK 3 sts for every 4 sts around left curved neck opening. PUK 1 st for every st at the centre front where sts were cast on. PUK 3 sts for every 4 sts around right curved neck opening. PUK 1 st for every st at the back where sts were cast on. End with an even number of sts. PM to mark BOR. (Photo 7)
Rib round: [K1, p1] to end.
Repeat Rib round 3 more times if you plan to BO in pattern (4 rounds total) or 2 more times (3 rounds total) if you plan to work an Italian tubular BO.
BO in pattern or using Italian tubular BO, as for circular hem.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block to finished measurements.
Abbreviations
BO: bind off
BOR: beginning of the round
CO: cast on
k: knit
k1tbl: knit 1 through the back loop
knitwise: as if to knit
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together – 1 stitch decreased
M1L: insert left needle under the yarn strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, knit this strand through the back loop – 1 stitch increased
M1R: insert left needle under the yarn strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, knit this strand – 1 stitch increased
M1-P: insert left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, purl into this strand – 1 stitch increased
p: purl
PM: place marker
PUK: pick up and knit st(s)
RS: right side
sk2p: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together (k2tog), pass slipped stitch over the k2tog and off the needle – 2 stitches decreased
sl: slip
SM: slip marker
st(s): stitch(es)
wyib: with yarn in back
wyif: with yarn in front
WS: wrong side
PIN FOR LATER
